9 juni, 20162 Comments

My work: Draping a shape on a dress

Tidigt i våras gick vi igenom olika skärningar på liv i draperingsklassen jag gick och jag tänkte visa hur vi gjorde för att drapera våra egna skärningar. Uppgiften var alltså att helt fritt välja ett sätt att "skära" i formen (eller sätta in ett insnitt) över bysten och för bästa resultat skulle man gärna hålla sig nära bröstpunkten.

Earlier this spring we went through various styles of how one cuts bodices in the draping class I took. I was thinking I'd show what we did when we had to drape our own cuts. The task was to choose a form to "cut" in the bodice over the bust, while staying close to the chest point for the best result.

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Jag hade sent på höstens termin gjort ännu ett koncept baserad på en saga kallat The Empress' new clothes. Det var en twist på Kejsarens nya kläder, fast i det här fallet handlade det om Marie-Antoinette och Versailles under sin primetime var inspirationen. Då hade jag skissat en lite halvkitschig klänning med en stor lilja på (Liljor symboliserar den franska kungaätten). Den formen fick det bli!

During fall term I had done yet another concept based on an old fairytale, named The Empress' new clothes. It's a twist on the classic tale The Emperor's clothes but in this case the royalty was Marie-Antoinette and Versailles in it's heydays was the inspiration. I had a sketch of a pretty kitschy dress with a big lily on the bodice (Or Fleur de Lys as they are called in French). There was the shape I needed!

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Vi började med att sätta ut formen vi ville ha med svarta band över dockan. Sedan draperade vi små tygbitar över bysten och försökte få det så kroppsnära som möjligt. / We started with adding the form we wanted in black string over the doll. Then we draped small pieces of toile over the chest and tried to get it as tight fitting as possible.

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Processed with VSCOcam with hb1 presetJag hade stora problem under den lilla vingen som gick ut mot armhålet. Jag ångade och strök, ångade och strök för att få ihop den sömmen utan skrynkel, men det var helt omöjligt i toiletyget. /I had huuuuge problems with the little wing of the lily that goes towards the armhole. I kept steaming and ironing, steaming and ironing to not make it wrinkle but nothing happened with that darn stiff toile fabric.

Processed with VSCOcam with hb1 presetTill slut, efter många omgångar med sprätten gav jag upp och använde mig av ett ulltyg som var lätt som en plätt att få till formen i. ÄLSKAR ull!! / After undoing and redoing that stitch until I got crazy I decided to do the center piece in wool instead. Easy peasy to shape that with heat and water. I LOVE WOOL!

Processed with VSCOcam with hb1 presetStår i valet och kvalet kring om jag ska förverkliga klänningen, det måste i så fall till ett riktigt smashing tygval så det inte blir puff-cirkus av det hela. OCH lösa liljornas nedre stjälkar, tanken var från början att de ska ligga utanpå kjoldelen. Färgen på det här tyget jag hittade var i alla fall magisk! Vad tycker ni om den? 🙂 / I'm still contemplating wether to actually do this dress in real fabric, if so it would need a really smashing one. Otherwise it might get all kitschy and circus-y. And I need to solve the end part of the lily. The color of a fabric I found would be very pretty with gold stitches at least. What do you think? 🙂

 

 

6 december, 20151 kommentar

Draping class & French pastries

"Life of a fashion design student" could also be the title of this blogpost. Yesterday I went in to uni around 11, stitched up a dummy arm (yes, you have to have an arm when you're gonna drape a shirt and NO it's neither easy or fun) and at 2 pm started a draping class we had missed due to the teacher being sick.

Draping is however quite fun, I prefer it a thousand times over pattern making, which is very dry and flat. Draping a fabric on the form makes it so much more understandable. But it is also not easy and a lot of math goes in to it. Today we started draping the shirt which we're supposed to finish next week and then start our own design to finish within two days. Stressful? Ya.

We draped the yoke, the gatherings, the cuff and pleats.

Saturday drafting class & birthday drinks
Saturday drafting class & birthday drinksThis is what I came up with after 5 hours of draping. It does look a little like a shirt!

Our teacher apparently felt a little sorry for us for coming in on a Saturday night, so he brought us French pastries. The French are hard to beat in this area, I tell you that.
Saturday drafting class & birthday drinks

Saturday drafting class & birthday drinksI had the fraisier, a marsipan pastry with lovely vanilla cream and strawberries... Gah! Definitely made the class easier after that.

 

 

 

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